Wiring Hook up direct to a single socket possible?

So im looking at wiring up a 2000w renogy inverter into a self made consumer unit. It would power a couple sockets and a boiler.

The inverter has a 230v AC input so my plan is to wire an RCD protected double socket in the garage direct to the incoming hook up supply.

That way when I’m at a hook up location this garage socket will be the only thing live.

I can then discount the battery power to the inverter and plug in the 230v AC from the hook up to the inverter so it’ll keep powering everything in the van safely.

The double socket will allow me to plug in a battery charger aswell.

The RCD sockets I’ve seen are rated at 13amps, a 2000w inverter would at max capacity pull 8 amps and the lithium charger I’m looking at as a 5 amp draw. So the 13 amp socket wouldn’t trip according to my math and the fact i probably wont max the inverter.

Just looking for some confirmation that this would actually work.

Greetings & Welcome!

Your convoluted description and terminology left me confused & frustrated. Let’s start with a few definitions, so people know what you’re talking about.

Inverter: Converts dc to ac. Example 12vdc to 120-240vac.
A 2,000 watt inverter could draw up to 200amps from your battery bank, and due to conversion inefficiencies a minimum battery bank size of 800-850ah is suggested by the experts.

Converter: Converts ac to dc, the opposite of an inverter. RV converters frequently have a battery charger feature built into them, and may also be integrated into the ac outlets in an RV. More typically, the ac is ran into the RV then to circuit breakers, one of which will lead to a converter to power 12v lights, outlets, & appliances thus bypassing the need for batteries, but may have a separate line going to the batteries to charge them if it’s a converter/charger.

Socket: Too ambiguous without better description, ac electrical socket, or dc lighter socket, light bulb socket or ???

Battery Charger: Too vague again, vehicle charging, aka B2B (Battery to battery or alternator charging), or shore charger, household/campground hookup battery charger, or converter/charger (converter with built in battery charger).

Boiler: ??? Better description needed…

Nobody can accurately read your mind, only your words, so those words need to accurately describe what you’re thinking in a way others can understand it, so they can offer worthwhile help or advice.


"Life can be as simple or as complicated as you make it.
Simple is cheaper and more reliable."
~ Off Grid

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I’ll keep it to a minimum then, because it makes sense in my head.

I want to wire the hook up power directly to a 3 pin 230v AC british socket without going through a consumer unit.

Power comes from a campsite, through the hook up cable into an RCD protected 230v AC Socket.

I would suggest a breaker in your truck wiring

The 230v AC socket has a built in RCD so a step above a breaker in terms of protection.

Wouldnt the breaker just allow an extra on/off cabability.


You keep using ambiguous words… What is a consumer unit?

I can’t decide whether you’re trying to over simplify things or over complicate them.

Simple solution, extension cord through window to an outlet strip.

The cord has to go from outside to inside somehow. My window can seal shut, even with the cord going through it, and without pinching the cord. My windows tip out at the bottom. On the other hand, a sliding window couldn’t be closed all the way. Doors are iffy and could damage your cord.

An ACD will help prevent electrocution, a circuit breaker will better protect against fires. My outlet strip has both a circuit breaker, and a surge protector built into it.

Most people install a through the wall unit, so you don’t need to go through a door or window.

So either an outside outlet, so you can disconnect the cord & store it inside, or through the window, and stored inside. You don’t want a cord hanging outside the van while driving.

I just keep a 50 foot cord reel stashed under my bed, and feed it through a window.



"Life can be as simple or as complicated as you make it.
Simple is cheaper and more reliable."
~ Off Grid

This must be an American forum because these words really arent ambiguous at all. Very very straight foward terminology.

Cheers for trying to help but you’ve just come across like you’re trying to make me feel stupid.

A boiler heats water, ie a truma combi boiler.

An inverter converts DC to AC, you then wire your AC appliences to your inverter to power them through a consumer unit. Distribution board, breakers, domestic unit. I dunno what word you understand but it’s all the same.

I stated the inverter also as an AC input.

You can disconnect the DC input to the inverter and run AC from hook up through the inverter ( which yes, i know now isnt doing the job of an inverter but its still called an inverter unfortunately)

This in turn will continue to power your AC appliences already wired to your Inverter. Without puttinf demand on your leasure battery.

While the hook up powers your vans inverter you batteries are free to be charged via an AC to DC charger

I’m just going to go ahead and wire the AC socket with built in RCD direct to the hook up, could have done with some knowledgeable input but I’ll find it elsewhere.

You clearly dont have much of a clue yourself.

RCD = residual current device

To translate to american you can simply use google.

GFCI = Ground fault circuit interupter

See how i took an extra step to accommodate someone else.

A language barrier doesnt make you clueless mate. You’re just clearly not as clued up as you may have thought.

Expanding your vocabulary never hurts anyone.

A boiler heats water for appliances for example. Thats why the Truma combi boiler is called a truma combi boiler. Worldwide best seller, really not that strange is it.

Peace out. Came for help not to stroke some egos.

Looking for some input on an electrical question has ended up with me trying to justify why a device used to boil water is called a boiler.

I’ve managed to get hold of a sparky* that works at my barracks* to clarify and the answer was pretty simple. " so long as it has earthing terminals it’ll be fine"

Technology has moved on a fair bit since that Polaroid was taken

I don’t think this forum is for me.

*sparky = British term for electrician
*barracks = a military camp or base
*Polaroid = very old style of photograph

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I’m in the UK and I understand what you are trying to do…

I have a hook up lead which plugs into the side of my van using the 16 amp blue weatherproof plugs commonly found over here in the UK and Europe.

The wiring from the back of the van socket leads to a garage “consumer unit” which comes usually with a 63 amp RCD (residual current device) and then on to 3 circuit breakers.

I have found that this is more than ample for my needs, which are sockets (combined maximum load of 13 amps), my inverter/charger (which as you correctly say, when plugged into mains will bypass the the inverter circuits giving the low voltage system a break, and also charging the batteries), and finally, my water heater.

The RCD will only be effective and safe if the earthing is correctly installed throughout the van (including to the body of the van) and connected to the hook up supply.

@jonnyfnt9 feel free to message me for more details and/or explanation.

I hope this helps.

Thank you for that. I knew it wasnt gibbering.

My plan now will be to run the live and neutrals from the inbound hook up power through a DP circuit breaker and the earth to a common earth bar, which will be grounded to the chasis.

Then run live, neutral and earth from there to the rcd protected socket in the garage.

That’ll give me life and over current protection to the garage socket.

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