Question about Charge controller hook up and load

I am finishing up the wiring in my van and everything is working fine. To give a sense of what I’m working with I have 400 watts of solar on the roof, running into a 40amp PMW charge controller. 200ah AGM battery and a 1000 watt inverter. I am also running a battery isolator that run directly into my leisure battery from the car battery/alternator. I have a common bus bar for ground and power and a main cut off switch between the battery and power bus bar. The charge controller is connected at the bus bar, and I have a fuse panel for my D/C equipment (lights, a fan, parking heater, 12v outlet and cooler). I do have switches installed for the lights, heater and outlets so that I can turn them on/off separately. What I am noticing though is when I cut the main power switch, the lights will still stay on (dimly) and I will still have voltage at all power connections. I’m assuming this is the voltage coming in from the charge controller, as it connects to the common power supply bus bar, and then everything else is connected there as well. My controller is just a generic one of amazon and it has input for solar panels, battery and the “load”. I see different diagrams where the fuse panel for d/c equipment is ran right off the common bus bar like my set up, and others where it runs off the “load” outputs directly from the charge controller. I do like that the controller can be programed to cut power at low voltage to anything hooked up to the “load” so I’m debating switching it over.

Are there any notable pros / cons to hooking up either way? At this point the only benefit I see is the ability to program the charge controller to shut power off to the d/c fuse panel if it drops below a certain voltage if its hooked directly to the “load” output. I just dont see many diagrams set up this way and I’m wondering if theres anything I’m not considering?

I run my fuse panel only off the load on the charge controller so it will protect the battery from over-discharge. But since inverters draw more than most “load” terminals on charge controllers can handle, connect the inverter directly to the battery with a fuse close to the battery. The inverter should have low voltage protection built in.

Your lights may be staying on dimly due to the charge controller trying to charge the battery with zero voltage (battery disconnected).

We don’t have our load hooked up to anything at all maybe it’s just because I too don’t quite understand the actual point of it.

@Axel - If your fuse block is only hooked up to the load from the charge controller does the power still go from battery to controller to fuse block when there is no sun?

Bretly, yes, it doesn’t have to be in the sun.