You’ve got lots of problems here…
10ah (AC) =120ah DC
50ah (AC) =600ah DC
Maxx fan probably 40 ah per day in summer. (~2a x 24 hours each)
Dometic CFX 65W Powered Cooler: closer to 80-100ah per day in summer. (personal experience, 40-50ah per day in mild winter) 12v only fridges/freezers are extremely overpriced energy hogs. Propane fridges are much more energy efficient and reliable.
Inverters typically consume 20%-25% more power than whatever you’re running, the top two numbers reflect that, whenever possible it’s better to get the car cords for your electronics. Inverters are VERY inefficient and should be avoided all together if at all possible.
Those batteries aren’t worth the money, go with typical lead acid deep cycle batteries for the best bang for your buck.
If you’re going to have 200ah worth of batteries, you want AT LEAST 600 watts of solar, and in Seattle that might not even be enough, but in all seriousness, solar is usually the worst and most expensive choice anyway. Charging via an isolator, relay, or solenoid while driving is always the best choice, and should be your first choice. A cheapie generator or shore power combined with a cheapie battery charger comes in as #2, but should be included, and solar comes in dead last. None of the real experts that aren’t trying to make money by giving bad advice use solar, not to mention that parking in the sun during the summer is a really dumb idea. 99% of the time, just charging while driving keeps my batteries full, the other 1% of the time, I have my $99 generator and my $29 battery charger. My generator will run for 8+ hours on a gallon of gas.
Heat, heating water, an induction cooker, or a microwave are best run on either shore power or a generator, if you INSIST on using electricity. Fuel powered appliances are much more energy efficient.
As an example, my entire power system cost about $200. $99 generator, $29 battery charger, 110ah deep cycle battery installed, with the isolator $80 at a battery shop. No solar or controller, and no inverter. The generator and battery charger can charge either my house battery or my starter battery, but most often gets used charging other peoples batteries that are foolishly relying on solar. If you are going to use an inverter, you want the smallest one possible PLUS 25% over the maximum load. Batteries are typically spec’d at a 20 hour rate, meaning that if you have 200ah of batteries, they don’t want a load of like more than 200/20hrs =10ah draw at any one time. Anything higher will seriously shorten the battery(s) life. Also keep in mind that if you have 200ah of batteries, only half or less of that is usable without damaging the battery(s).
I try to be power smart, and charge my electronics while driving. This is a free charge, that doesn’t effect my house battery, which is also charging simultaneously.
I do know a couple of people who love their roof full of solar, but for each of them, I know hundreds who have learned to hate it, just like I have. Over the years I’ve wasted probably $10k between several attempts to make solar work for me, (and my needs are minimal), and it never worked as advertised for me. Solar hot water is doable though, just have a back up plan for when the sun isn’t shining. Anywhere in the country, you can go a week or more without seeing any sunshine, especially in the winter. The better options don’t rely on sunshine…
As much as solar powered house battery charging has failed me, I do have individual solar powered items that I use daily. Unlike the roof solar, they seem to charge just fine in only daylight by sitting them in a window or outside. Among them are lanterns, flashlights, headlamps, a bug zapper, a radio, and a battery charger for AA/AAA/C/D/9v batteries, and it also has several USB ports on it. I also have water jugs and spray bottles painted black for solar hot water and showers.
Our systems don’t need to be expensive to be good, convenient, and efficient.
"Be the reason someone smiles today!" ~ Van_Dweller