Hi, this is my first time here, and I am having big confusion with my solar layout. Fuses are really killing me right now. I don’t really know what wire sizes I’m supposed to be using because I don’t know the distances from each device yet, as I don’t have a proper layout. I was wondering if anyone may have a little more expertise in this area and may be able to help me out in figuring out exactly what I’ve done wrong! Thank you!
I can’t quite wrap my head around your solar panel wiring…
I would connect them all in parallel.
If you really have 1200 amps of battery, I’d go with 3600w of solar.
Wire size is determined by max power input/output. Fuse size is based on wire size, so as to protect the wiring.
50a @ 12vdc for A/C seems strange. That’s only 600w and 600w of A/C isn’t likely going to do enough cooling. A/C off batteries is very inefficient. Swamp coolers are much more energy efficient and offer better cooling in my experience. My peltier powered heat pump only draws 65w @ 12vdc. My 40 footer does require 2 though.
Good Luck & keep us updated.
Hey there thank you so much for your input! I’m curious as to why you would wire them all in parallel. If I were to do that, my array short circuit amperage would be 40.92A when my max series fuse rating is only 20A. If I’m not mistaken, it should be at least under 30A, so that’s why I did 2s2p.
Also, I agree and would LOVE to have more solar, but unfortunately my setup doesn’t really allow for it, as I ran out of room on the top. I COULD do extendable wings that slide out, but that seems like something that I wouldn’t be able to fit into my timeframe.
50A @ 12V for my A/C is absolutely correct, and is even the recommended fuse sizing for that particular model. My bus is only ~105^2ft. and the unit is rated for up to 150^2ft. (in case you’re wondering, the model is the ZeroBreeze Mk.3)
As for my fusing/breaker and wiring sizes, are you basically saying that I won’t be able to find my fusing sizes until I know what wiring sizes I have? I was under the assumption before your comment that fuses/breakers not only protected wiring, but also the device they’re powering. If that is true, is it just protecting the devices THROUGH protecting the wiring?
Hopefully you haven’t bought that a/c yet, I’ve heard nothing but bad reviews of it from actual users. Actual users say that a 5k BTU window shaker is about 10x more powerful, and they actually recommend 16k BTU & up for small vans. In comparison, most bigger vans & SUV’s have 35k+ BTU a/c from the factory, belt driven by the engine. Many of the passenger vans actually have 2, one in front and another in the rear. My minivan has 18k BTU a/c in both front & rear, and it can sometimes struggle to keep up.
I don’t even know what 150ft^2 means in their context or yours, 150^2 = 22,500… When it comes to climate control, houses and vehicles don’t compare well, and vehicles are much harder to heat or cool than a house, plus they require constant ventilation when we’re living in them making the heating/cooling even less efficient. Many people are recommending mini split 18k+ BTU a/c’s or heat pumps…
With your panels in series, any tiny amount of shade or possibly dirt will cause them not to work at all, in parallel, only that single panel will be effected. Series also multiplies the volts, while parallel multiplies the amps. Users claim to get more power out of parallel.
Yes, fuses/breakers are to protect the wiring first, because that’s where most fires start. Many appliances will have their own fuses/breakers, and if not, ones can be added just before them. The main wires are normally heavier to carry the power for multiple items.
Before discussion of proper AC wattage I’d question where the OP is going to camp and what style of camping. In years of my fulltime nature traveling all over Western US I never needed an AC and don’t use the one that came with my rig. All my needs are met by 200 watts of solar and I travel comfortably. If rig is used for stationary living without travel or to house pets that’s a different story