I’m looking at my options and one is to build a custom box body on top of a chassis, like this one–I’d just take off the drop sides and start building framework, panels and foam insulation. Apart from hard work, the only down side I can see is floor height above wheel height, so it will be quite tall.
Any comment, please?
I wouldn’t start with that vehicle, I’d start with a something like a van front motorhome that had camper damage, like maybe a tree fell on it. They can be purchased very cheaply, will have a lower floor, and much of the appliances and cabinetry, etc. can be salvaged.
I have built a few. I start with a roll cage, then build the body using the foamy method. It’s fast, cheap, easy, and extremely strong, durable, rot proof, and light weight.
I use a double layer of 1" foam panels, staggered for added waterproofing properties. Rounded corners can be achieved using a hot wire knife or a router, if you want them, but square corners are popular not too.
I avoid any holes in the roof like the plague. I vent everything to the sides using rain proof louvers. Solar brackets, or cargo racks mount to the sides, zero roof holes. Done right, it will never leak, and will outlast the rest of the vehicle.
The 2" foam floor/walls/roof offer superior light weight insulation as well being extremely strong and durable. I coat the with smooth rubberized truck bed liner both inside & out, before adding finishing paint, or possibly interior paneling. I DO NOT use wood paneling.
I even make the cabinets out of foam, because it’s lighter, stronger, and more durable & moisture proof than wood. Hidden, foolproof, simple, lift to open wedge type latches for drawers. Sliding cabinet doors instead of swinging ones, sliding or accordian doors for rooms.
Interesting ideas. Thanks.
About your “I wouldn’t start there” I appreciate the logic, but also I won’t last long with a previously-converted van, because I’d be wanting to tear bits out and replace them all the time. It could work well if I want to use it from day one and improve as I go, I guess…
BTW does anyone here know a website showing the kind of catches, doors and clever hinges I might end up using?
Cheers,
Roops
I wasn’t suggesting keeping the original camper part, just the appliances & other things you might find useful in your new build.
My builds use no store bought latches or hinges. All the cabinets have sliding doors, because they stay shut when traveling without latches, and the drawers use the old fashioned wedge type latches which are for more reliable than store bought ones, and never break. You just lift the drawer slightly to be able to open it. Here’s a rough diagram of how it works:
