Acrylate or Two-Polymer Glue for Build? Or?

The Build
#1

I have a Sprinter that comes with a metal floor in perfect condition and I’d really rather not drill holes into it. I have done some research and wood and metal can be bonded together using a strong Acrylate or Two-Polymer bonding adhesive.

What I have now are wooden boxes that will hold slide in/out containers for drawers and storage. See pictures. I am going to glue and nail the wooden bed piece (which is heavy 5/8" plywood) to the top of the wooden boxes. It’s a pretty snug fit right now - but I’d rather avoid a catastrophe during a drive…

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Anyone have other ideas about how this bed structure should be/could be secured to avoid slippage?

Thanks in advance -

CBear

#2

Honestly I just used gorilla glue heavy duty ultimate and or the liquid nails version and have not had any problems in almost three years and I glued quite a lot to my ceiling with it. Especially where I was not comfortable putting a screw.

I also used this on my window frame to glue the bottoms and sides the the window and have not had any issue there either, even when getting wet here and there by leaving windows open by mistake.

On a side not I would use slats for the top of the bed and or drill a pile of holes into that plywood. You need airflow under there, otherwise you will get mold and moisture buildup under the mattress.

#3

Hi there -

Thanks for your input - that’s really good to know! For under the bed, there are some options to slats (won’t fit my bed size) or drilling holes…one I found is this. Basically a mat that you put under your mattress to prevent condensation/moisture, - and thus mold.

Thanks again!

#4

I think I would still go with slats, they just need to be boards that are 1 inch by 3 or 4 inches wide and then spaced correctly based on their width.

That thing kinda looks like it would might suck up dust and never come clean again.

#5

Can I ask why you would want to permently attach your flooring? In would never glue or screw wood to the metal floor. I have a floating floor. First I bought bed liner and covered everything where wood will come into contact with the van metal because it is known that can cause the wood to rot. After rolling on the bed liner and letting it dry, I put down Foam board insulation and tivek tape on all seams. Then using the same template I cut out 1/2 inch plywood and again tyvek tape on the seams. I usedhard pine flooring that I bought at a yard sale left over from a job. I can use poly or epoxy th protect it if need be or changed out. But if you glue wood to the floor, you are stuck with it or a major job removing it. Many homes have floating floors.

#6

Hi -

Thank you so much for your response. I appreciate what you are saying, but I have some obstacles:

The first is that I have no tools and certainly no skills to be cutting out templates of anything. No family/friends to help and can’t find anyone to hire. This is apart from the tools question. I have a drill set as far as power tools go. (Heck, I can’t even work a sewing machine after years of trying…and taking classes!)

No space to work in. I have tried renting garages, warehouse space, driveways, anything. Everything that I do must be contained within the van while I work. I cannot lay out a template and cut it out, using a saw, etc in the street. (As it is, I have to move the van every 3 days or so to keep the neighborhood happy. I get the "don’t like to see a van parked where - “I can’t see my children in the playground.”, “We have a project here, your van is in the way.”, “We don’t want to look out our windows and see the van.”, etc. etc. etc.)

I am curious about the “bed liner” you mentioned. Is this a liquid that is laid down or a physical, rubber/plastic barrier?

I also saw one video using ratchet belts to secure everything in place - but - I have a passenger van and not a lot of D-rings to attach to.

Thanks very much - I’d love to hear about the van bed liner material. . . :grinning:

Chana

#7

I’m sorry to hear about your situation/ difficulties with your van build. That would suck. I would loan tools or help if you were nearby…. And your neighbors… we’ll I’ll just leave that one alone.
I believe you can make this happen. It will be more difficult but if there’s one thing to learn from van builds its that there no one way to do things and we can make it up as we go. Don’t be afraid to try a new uproach or use different materials then what others use. It doesn’t mean what’s tried and true isn’t a really good solution and just more commonly used. People love to copy others ideas because it requires less effort to come up with their own organic solution/ build.
I believe your perseverance will provide a great result.
I personally used three separate outdoor custom covered cushions that are essentially waterproof that convert into my mattress. I also used a melamine bench/base for my bed that is obviously water resistant. It is heavier for sure but these two things prevent the moisture absorption and more issues. I also live in a very hot and dry environment or mold and moisture are far less likely. They make rubber shower and bath liners that could likely be placed over top of plywood to provide a sealed surface. You could easily glue this down. There are probably a half dozen other materials that could be used in a similar fashion. I’ve used liquid nails in my van as it is a tried and true construction adhesive used for years.
One alternative way to secure your build such as what I did for my bed is to install angle steel in the side framing of the wall that my bed could be attached to. Although liquid nails is an extremely strong adhesive the thought of everything coming forward if I were in an accident is something to definitely consider. The very best of luck to you. You don’t have to be a professional to build vans or use tools but an open and positive attitude about learning new things makes this possible for anyone!!

#8

Bed liner is a thick ruberized liquid that can be sprayed on or like I did it you can use a small roller. You have seen the comercial of “little Phil” with the sealer? This is way better and cheaper. You can buy at any automotive chain parts store. I rolled uo the side and top rails and a few stripes on the metal for sound deadning.

#9

The floor will not come forward in a front end collision even if it is a floating floor. JUST MAKE SURE YOU GIVE IT 1/4 INCH ALL AROUND FOR ANY KIND OF EXPANSION

#10

IF YOU WERE HERE IN FLORIDA, I would help you. I have a shop. You want to be involved in your process so you can repair and replace anything on the van. Especially the solor. We all are unaware until we just start in and do it. Trust me, you will want to change and re-arrange things. I know of many people that built their vans in the parking lot of Lowes or some other bigbox lumber/ hardware parkinglot a few hours at a time. Just dont be intimidated. We all need to learn what we dont know

#11

Yes I agree the floor will stay put. I also have a laminate floating floor. I was mainly talking about the bed/ platform and any other installed fixtures that seem “ securely sitting” in their place. As you know big heavy objects can shift quite easily in a van with a sudden stop, matter of fact anything not secure will shift while driving🙄.If you’re not going to Screw or bolt down your complete bed platform/ stand and assembly to the floor I would use at least a construction grade adhesive. ( liquid nails). As mentioned by @Bretly. I used angle brackets, screws, angle metal, bolts, etc. I would recommend you are overly cautious then not.

Everyone finds out what’s not secured when they start driving around their house on wheels and a couple hard turns, it doesn’t take long and it’s inevitable you too will experience this.

#12

Hi Trav -

Thanks so much for the great words!

I am SO with you on the stuff moving around and wiping things out as it comes forward!

So - as you can see in the picture, the bed platform will be sitting on the storage shelving.

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I like this height because I can get max space in the garage for my portable solar panels, etc. and also a nice number of bins for storage. I also like that I can get into the garage from the front just by moving a few bins. (I am going to put bungee cords top/bottom to hold them in place…but, don’t anticipate a lot of breakable items in there.)

My plan was to use a super-glue (acrylate epoxy, etc.) and glue the storage bins in place and then secure the bed platform by drilling into the top of the wooden storage shelving.

However, after reading the responses, it seems I need to do more in the flooring under the garage area to protect the wood. I am going to add a bed liner paint - but - most of the solutions (Eva foam, floating floors are beyond my skill - or I think would not hold up well with constant pulling and tugging (foam mats, etc).

The curved angle of the Sprinter’s walls are also a bit of a challenge…since I am using (on much advice) the original passenger van walls. So using right-angle brackets may not work. Right now moving the bins as close as possible, there is still at least a 1" gap between the bin and the van wall…

Anyway, it’s getting there - but slower than I expected - of course.

Thanks so much for your responses and help…

#13

I have a shop.

And I am viciously jealous. . :wink:

Thanks for the kind offer. Fortunately, I am pretty good on the solar side of things. I have lived exclusively on 100% solar for 12 years so, understand the challenges. I am using a power generator - an EcoFlow Delta Pro with 3600wh that has six different ways to charge - including a windmill function soon. I have 800w portable panels that I can move as necessary. Running the wiring from the Delta Pro through the van is straightforward using an Anderson fuse box and connectors.

It’s actually really good to know that parking lots are getting good use and that people are using them this way. How handy when you think about it? A lot of parts/supplies you might need will just be a walk away!

Thanks again!