Wondering how folks transposed a point from the flat but unlevel floor to the ceiling. This is so my studs can be perpendicular to the floor. I’ll be using 80/20 for the cabinetry and will pre-set riv-nuts in the roof structural cross members to secure the top cabinet 80/20 to the van.
After you find your point on the floor, ensure the vehicle is parked level front to back and side to side, then simply us a plumb bob held from the ceiling over your point to transfer said floor point to ceiling.
The method posted by Nancy103 above is foolproof PROVIDED you can find both a really level parking spot and accurately level the van (and keep it there while walking around in it). You need to find as absolutely level a parking spot as possible. Make sure your tires are at exactly the same pressure as well. An alternative to a plumb line is to get a cross line laser level with horizontal and vertical beams (they can be had for < 50 at HD or on amazon). Then consider the difference between level and plumb (to earth) vs square to chassis - they are not necessarily the same. The van floor may very well not be level when the van itself is parked on a level surface (typically the rear is slightly higher when unloaded).
This entire issue (weight distribution side to side and front to back) has been bugging me a bit as I prepare for my build, as the van will sit slightly lower (suspension will compress) in back once built out and when fully loaded with bed, full water tanks, etc., and it has a small, but not insignificant, effect on bed, cabinet/countertop leveling. My plan is set my water tanks temporarily and fill them along with adding other weight equal to the bed framing, mattress, etc. and then level the kitchen cabinet/countertop area. Just food for thought . . .
I appreciate the feedback.
After much research, I think I have come up with a plan. I really doubt I can ever get the floor perfectly level especially if there are two people moving around in it through the process.
What I think I’ll do is mark my reference point on the floor and the use a steel carpenters square with a magnetic plumbers torpedo laser level attached and shoot the laser to the ceiling. I’ll do this front and back from where I can put a permanent reference line that everything on the ceiling can be measured from. I’ll be using 80/20 for cabinet framing and will be mounting rib-nuts into the structural roof cross members securely bolt the upper cabinets. The next conundrum I need to figure out is how to ensure a thermal break so heat/cold does not transfer through to the 80/20 framing.
I’ve seen some pro builders using 1/8" “rubber” sheeting strips for thermal bridging isolation. Just make sure to run an electrical bonding jumper from chassis to any 80/20 framing to ensure electrical/grounding continuity.
Yes the ground is important and thanks for reminding me. A couple solutions I’ve considered for the thermal bridge issue is to attach the 80/20 by way of structural FRP Angle brackets or a PVC solid spacer that the bolt from the 80/20 goes through to screw into the riv-nut. There is a YouTube guy (ourkaravan) goes through the process.