(novice speaking here) This seems to be crazy expensive and complicated to me. But if you have a promaster you can probably afford it. We do not have an inverter and haven’t had the need for one yet although we plug in a lot. I am ready to rip the charger/converter out of my old van entirely and simply replace it with a promariner/prosport charger (Gen 3 Pro Sport 20). Not sure of the implications yet or if I need to do anything to plug it in to my 30amp connection. Although, I don’t think I will. I had great success with these chargers on my old sailboat. I guess I don’t see the need for a converter/charger combo, but I do not know a lot about this yet and am still learning.
Are you going to use the body of your vehicle to complete the circuit? My van does and I do not like it, I would rather run the negative back to its source or back to a fuse panel.
Also not that it is wrong but why would you run the fuse block off or your solar charge controller and not off of the battery bank itself? I’m adding in a monitor this week (500A battery monitor with shunt | rv battery monitor | Renogy), but for it to work correctly all negatives hook to it then it hooks to the batter. Wondering how this would work in this setup and how you are going to monitor actual amps in and out or amp hours total? This to me is the most important part of it all and it seems like you’re missing it unless one of these devices does that already?